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NIGHT descends on the crumbling storefronts and tenements, falling in the space between buildings and shedding gloom over the rooftops. Beside the whirring traffic, the volunteer tour guide, Paul Marion, stands on the corner, holding a copy of Jack Kerouac's novel ''Dr. Sax.'' In a soft voice, Mr. Marion reads: ''The other night I had a dream that I was sitting on the sidewalk on Moody Street, Pawtucketville, Lowell, Mass., with a pencil and paper in my hand saying to myself 'Describe the wrinkly tar of this sidewalk.' ''
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